Christina Richâ Devi
Living in Ontario and its winters always has me longing for sun-fun destinations, by the time November rolls around. Although I have explored most of the Caribbean Islands and other hotspots south, it is Jamaica that truly captured my heart. Already thirty years ago. I still remember the island with dirt roads, lots of donkey carts, unspoiled beaches, Negril just in the making, Bob Marley accessible, and through him the authentic roots spirit of the Rastafari. Like everywhere in the world, Jamaica has undergone tremendous changes, largely with the tourist influx, once the word got out about how heavenly the beaches, cool the jungle, how lush the mountains, how scenic the island. Now a million visitors per year enjoy this magical place and of course the economy is booming and the islands infrastructure barely recognizable with well-paved highways, luxurious hotels and amazing multi-million dollar estates, with TV in practically every hut, restaurants and entertainment galore, 3 universities and fantastic opportunities for the local people to be more cosmopolitan. However, what has not changed much since my first arrival is the authenticity of the true roots culture.
Christina Richâ Devi
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Deep in the hills, away from the tourist aromas of Montego Bay, Negril, Ocho Rios and Port Antonio you can still immerse yourself into what is truly Jamaican. Around Port Maria, a small fishing village, where I travel every year and find lodging with a breathtaking view at the old BLUE HARBOR estate, which once belonged to playwright, Noel Coward, I made connections with the Roots teachers. The staff at Blue Harbor is very knowledgeable in cooking Ital food, they know the value of a simple lifestyle, and prepare the food the traditional way. Here are abundant offerings of, starting with breakfast: ackee and cod fish, soursap juice, wild greens and jerk chicken or fresh escavitched fish for dinner, followed by delicious Roots herbal tea and maybe some bread pudding. Rastafari brew up different concoctions for me and my guests, with each visit, as in my profession as a Retreat guide, I make every effort to bring people as close to the culture as I can. Many have found relief for long-standing infections, intestinal problems, even diabetes and cancer. Once a week some of the now friends, real committed guys, Sastri, Gussie and Churchill take my friends into the bush for a little roots workshop. The botanical medicine of Jamaica is pretty awesome and you can easily find guidance once you open your mind to the healing power of herbs.
The local Maroon people, the fishermen, the farmers and the old-fashioned bush doctors rely on their "doctoring with roots" and even at the markets you can sometimes spot a few recycled Rum bottles with mysterious looking brew in it for maybe $10 that is sure to cure anything from dandruff to athlete's foot. There are some beautiful Botanical gardens on the island,
and Castleton is one of the most well-preserved and open to the public.
If you want to be even more adventurous you could risk a day outing into the bush, deep into the tropical rain forest and discover all kinds of magic with the plant and animal species around you. My favorite outing from Port Maria is to hire a fishing boat with its captain, a capable guide, named Rupert and cross the ocean to a very remote black sand beach, dock, hang out with the Rastas, who are very kind and extremely knowledgeable, and for a small fee, anywhere from a few dollars to a T-shirt, some cigarettes, or cookies, take you on an enchanted hike up steep hillsides to a waterfall fit for the movies. Kwaman Falls are deeply hidden and not yet a tourist attraction as you either have to boat to it, or take a serious hike from Robins Bay. Yet once you have been, you will never forget and always want to go again.
Paul, one of the custodians at the Falls, who tends a lot of the surrounding hills, growing a variety of crop, knows every shrub and every leaf, and lets you sample, check and sniff your way along this goat path. Once you have arrived, a cooling dip in this soothing freshwater pool, will surely soothe your muscles and elevate your spirits. We usually have a nice rest here, take pictures, swim and frolic and finish with a picnic
and the cold, delicious coconut jelly juice and soursap drinks. All the Rastafaris living in that neighborhood are very good diagnosticians and may recommend anything from drinking sea water, to a mud pack, to a herbal poultice, to meditation at sunrise, or smoking the herb. They have dozens of uses for lemongrass, all the mints, cassia, aloe vera and are fantastic herbalists. They are good-natured, all have broad smiles and are
infinitely curious about us. (They envision us all millionaires). They are very fit, take great care with their diet, are god-fearing and have a well-developed sense of roots and rhythm. The Reggae is in their blood and blaring everywhere. They carry the heart and soul of Jamaica in their being and an encounter with one of these Rastas is something simply human
and touches one in a primal place.
Romping in the bush brings other treasures such as the Doctor Birds overhead. Bird watching is enhanced by the unique richness and variety of the landscape and the lush tropical climate. The Doctor bird is the national emblem and there are quite a few varieties, the difference being in the length of the tail and colorings. Last they counted they recorded 51 species of birds in Jamaica and you are sure to hear them. Horseback riding, any kind of water sport, deep sea fishing, ballooning, or going for a wild ride on a rented motor scooter on the wildly curved highway that meanders throughout the island, you are sure to be on the move and get your fill. Dancing is the national pastime and the music is in the blood of every Jamaican and they are awesome to watch and dance with. There are about half a dozen small museums spread throughout the island and the folklore stories depict a rich cultural heritage tracing their African roots. The countries highest point is the Blue Mountain peak at 2,256 meters and it is possible to engage a guide and hike all the way to the top. This mountain region is famous for the coffee plantations and hand harvested coffee exported all over the world, currently yielding US $20/pound, and so a worthwhile agricultural endeavor.
Bromeliads in all varieties and a diverse lichen are visible as you climb to the top. Two very special mineral baths are worth mentioning, both public. Milk River and Bath in Clarendon, both being authentic Jamaica and pretty steadily frequented by locals and tourists alike. Wherever you travel in Jamaica, you are sure to be immersed into the culture, feel uplifted in your Body-Mind and will feel the IRIE spirit.
Christine Richâ Devi is a self-help educator, writer and Psychoneuroimmunologist in private practice in Toronto. She offers healing retreats throughout the globe.
Additional information on other trips may be found here